Camping isn’t for everyone. In theory, sleeping under the stars having just feasted on fresh-from-the-fire marshmallows and one too many ciders sounds divine. In reality, this picture-perfect scene is often shattered by an onslaught of mosquitoes, an unexpected downpour and a limp, leaking tent. Glamping is a little different, however. It is camping’s answer to the boutique hotel; still cheap, but immeasurably more luxurious. Think glamping and you should be thinking yurts, Shepherd’s huts, caravans and log cabins. And armed with our batch of crafted accessories, you’ll bring an extra layer of chic to your glamping trip.
- Stainless steel flask
- Spray paint, Rust-Oleum: Mode in sunflower yellow and base coat
- Craft and Hobby Enamel, Rust-Oleum: various colours
- Chalk pastel stick in white
- 1.5m of deckchair fabric from Deckchair Stripes
- Lining fabric
- Glass paper
- Teak oil
- Staple gun
- Hammer, pliers, staple remover, flat screw driver
- Sewing kit
- Oilcloth in assorted patterns, Dotty Brown
- 18″ square cushion pad
- 3 x Enamel tin mugs – Go Outdoors
- Rust-Oleum, American accents Craft & Hobby Enamel Spray, Blossom Pink, Buttercup and Tranquil Blue
- Frog Tape – Painters making tape
- Basic candle making kit
- Metal or heat proof container that will fit into the pan
- Sand the flask’s whole surface and mask any plastic trim. Remove all dust and lightly replace the lid. Place the flask inside an old cardboard box on a empty tin can, ensuring you’re in a ventilated room.
- Shake the base coat spray for two minutes before spraying the flask from side to side. Use the tin can to revolve the flask and respray. Continue until the flask is covered and re-coat after two hours if necessary. Allow to dry for 12 hours.
- Lightly sand the base coat if necessary, then apply a yellow top coat as before. Leave for 15 minutes before applying a second coat and let dry for one hour.
- Paint the bird design with Craft and Hobby Enamel using a small rounded brush. Stir the paint well before you start. It should be touch dry in 30 minutes, but leave overnight before using.
Every good camper needs a flask of tea for their glamping weekend.
- Carefully remove the old seat fabric. Tacks can be removed with a flat screw driver and the claw of a hammer, and dislodge staples with a staple remover or a flat screw driver and a pair of pliers. Keep the old seat as a guide for the new fabric.
- Lightly sand and wash the surface, paying special attention to hinges and bolts. Apply teak oil with a soft cloth. Leave to soak in and dry for a few hours; outside in the sunshine is perfect.
- Collapse the chair and turn it onto its front with the back facing you. Press in 2cm onto the wrong side at both ends of the deckchair fabric; these are the edges which will be attached to the front lower and top bars of the chair, the double layer will add strength.
- Attach the fabric first to the lower bar; use the old staple holes as a guide and lay it out in the opposite direction to the chair frame. Staple in the centre first, then at either end pulling the fabric taught. Finally fill in the gaps to create a complete line.
- Lay the old cover onto the new and use pins to mark the length of the seat (there should be excess fabric). Turn the frame over, bring the new cover up and position the fabric along the top bar at the point where the two pins are positioned, then apply a row of staples.
- Turn the frame over and fix the folded end of the strip in the same position as the old cover. You will be left with a pleat of excess fabric, which becomes the cover for a built-in pillow.
- For the pillow, measure the depth and width of the pleat. Cut a double layer of wadding to the same depth but 4cm narrower than the width. Cut two bits of lining the same size, then stack the pieces together and stitch around three sides. Turn to the right side, press and insert the wadding. Turn in the raw edge and slip-stitch to close.
Set the scene with a deckchair made with your own choice of beautiful deckchair fabric – simply perfect for glamping.
- Cut nine 16cm squares of oilcloth in three different designs and arrange in an alternating pattern. Stitch the squares together in a three by three block, right sides together with a 5mm seam allowance.
- Trim four 7cm x 46cm strips of oilcloth. Stitch one strip to each side of the patchwork panel, leaving a 5mm overlap at each end. Fold the patchwork panel diagonally so that the ends of each strip can be sewn together to form the sides of the cushion.
- Make a second patchwork panel as in step one or cut a single 46cm square of oilcloth. Pin to the edges of the side strips, matching up the corners neatly. Stitch around three sides completely, leaving a gap for turning on the fourth side.
- Turn out the cushion cover, then roll up the cushion pad and feed it through. Turn in 5mm on both raw edges of the opening and use a double thickness of sewing thread and a sharp needle to stitch it closed using mattress or ladder stitch.
Make your glamping project extra comfy with these splash-proof and wipe-clean oil-cloth cushions.
- Wash the mugs thoroughly with warm soapy water and leave to air dry. Using the masking tape, mask off the rim around the top of the mugs.
- In a well ventilated area, spray each of the outside surfaces of the mugs with the enamel paint using a different colour for each mug. To help, insert the card board tubes from kitchen towels into the mugs to hold whilst spraying. Hold the tube at arm’s length and spray approximately 30cms away from the mug. The colour is better built up in thin layers than spraying one thick layer. A second layer can be applied one hour later when dry.
- Leave the paint to dry onto the mugs over night and then the candle wax can be prepared. Fill the saucepan by a third with water and bring to the boil. Place the smaller container into the pan. Pour the wax pellets into the container to melt.
- Cut pieces of wick to the height of the tin mugs plus an extra 3cms. Drop the wicks into the melted wax, leave for a few seconds and then remove with the stirrer; the wax will set almost immediately. Pass the waxed wick through the hole in the metal collar and secure by squeezing the collar closed with a pair of pliers. Pass the top of the wick through the hole in the wooden wick holder, place the wick into the mug and centre it leaving the metal collar just off the base of the mug. Secure the top of the wick with a piece of Blu-tack and then remove the wick assemble from the mug.
- Pour the melted wax into the mug filling to 90% full and then drop in the wick assemble making sure it is centred. Now turn of the heat and leave the candle to set. As the candle dries the wax shrinks lightly and forms a dip around the wick. When the candle wax has dried, re-heat the remaining wax and pour into the top of the mug.
- When the wax is completely dry the wick cut be cut to approximately 1cm, leave the candle over night preferably before lighting for the first time. Follow the candle making instructions for more in depth instructions.
Bring some light to your glamping area with a selection of hand-made candles with poured wax.